Choosing a good dog shampoo
First capital point, the skin of the dog is more delicate than that of man and can not be washed with the same products. No, even with baby shampoos, or cleansing bases called soft or neutral for the man. On the order of 6 to 7, its pH is more basic (or alkaline) than that of our skin (between 5.5 and 6).
The skin of the dog, very sensitive
Very fine, the skin The dog is fragile and sensitive to external aggressions, such as chemical and environmental pollution, allergens (mites). Hence the relatively high frequency of dermatitis, itching and other inflammations. Its skin renewal is faster and its skin defenses less effective than in humans.
Hence the need to favor products specifically designed for the dog , which contain effective cleaning agents (more powerful as for humans), while being perfectly tolerated by a relatively vulnerable skin because of its structure and its high density in hair follicles which facilitates the skin penetration of the active agents.
Finally, rinsing Dog hair must be easy and complete (risk of irritation by residues and ingestion by licking). " There are three main categories of surfactants: the anionic (including the classic soap based on coconut oil, palm, olive...), the cationic - volumizing effect and conditioner - and nonionics. Recognizable by the foam they produce, the first two have the highest washing efficiency but can be irritating in high doses. Nonionics are softer but less clean , "says Dr. Pierre Jasmin, marketing manager of dermatological products of Virbac laboratories
Priority to natural products
Pleasant for the owner, the presence of a abundant and silky foam, produced by some aggressive detergents, is not a sign of quality... Prefer shampoos may be less creamy but softer for the skin , for example based on surfactants containing sugars (sucrose, fructose, glucose and starch), fruit acids and moisturizing and softening ingredients such as essential fatty acids (good quality coconut oil for example).
Lactic acid (from a fruit or milk) and urea are hydro-fixing agents naturally present in the skin. As long as it is included in a quality formula, Aloe vera and oat colloid extracts are natural substances of interest for soothing the itch (during an infestation). flea) and other allergic manifestations causing scales
Similarly, less formula contains perfumes, synthetic dyes and preservatives (although it is difficult to dispense with totally), the closer it gets to the ideal. It is not your dog who will say the opposite, always quick to go roll in a smell more pleasant for his truffle than that of the good shampoo with almond or apricot that you just made him...
However, the so-called natural products are not always adapted to the skin of your animal. Aleppo soap, black soap and Marseille soap are to be avoided because they act as anionic surfactants with a high drying power , which can cause irritation and itching. Not to mention the "aesthetic" aspect obtained, sometimes deplorable.
No time to shampoo?
It's an old breeder's trick to wash his dog without making him take Bath: use maize starch , soda or talc to rid the hair of dirt. This very economical dry shampoo - to be applied outside
- cleans stained furs and deodorises them.
It also has the advantage of helping to disentangle long-haired dogs. Simply sprinkle the affected parts and gently massage to coat the hair before brushing. Magic
Is this article helpful to answer your problem?